Mount Hood

In 2021, I was in between trips with my mountaineering friends and watched them leave in the morning to climb Mt Hood. They invited me to join them for the climb but I had zero experience and even though I had a good fitness foundation, I believed I had no business going up it and being a risk to others and myself.

Two years later, I returned to the same place but this time, it's my turn with an ice ax and crampons in hand. I have gained the knowledge and competence through time, classes and experience. (I recommend the 2 week mountaineering course with the American Alpine Institute called AMTL 1).

I was picked up by my friend Michael G from my Airbnb by Smith Rock at 11pm, and at 1:15am after filling out the climbers registry, we began the climb from the parking lot. The snow climb was immediate with packed snow. We strapped on crampons after passing others and gaining 3100ft in 2.5 hours. 

Pearly gates were impossible to climb with a recent crevasse. Going up the "old chute" was the approach followed by all the climbers. I could see headlamps in front and behind us. Even much behind us. Approaching the last 1000 ft after passing the sulfur fields - we could all see climbers ahead of us front stepping. It seemed like that's the steepest section and I was excited to get to it. A ball of ice even rolled down and hit me at speed. It shocked me for a second. Behind us, the shadow of Mt Hood towered across and created the most spectacular sunrise I've seen lately.

Coming up on the climb, the snow had a gritty ice like texture. The last 1000ft was steeper where I used the French technique followed by front pointing to finish. The steepest pitch was maybe around 45-50 degrees. There were groups that looked like a guided trip which roped up with climbers who were slowly inching up. Surprisingly, I felt very comfortable on the steep sections. Maybe it's because I've tried ice climbing and I've been throwing myself on rocks for the past week. 

The summit ridgewalk traverse was beautiful. I was happy to be there, but part of me wished it was a bit harder. We summited at 6:30am, and returned at 10:15am. I had some trouble on the descent dealing with a blister on my right pinky toe 😞

Some thoughts on climbing Mt Hood - I don't think it's a beginner mountain and even if guided - I think it's not the easiest one to start with. I saw that some posts on alltrails recommended 2 axes, but I don't think it was necessary. 

Mt Hood 6/3/2023

7.75 miles /5500ft +-