Mount Toubkal
Mount Toubkal (Jebel Toubkal) is the highest peak in the Atlas Mountains and all of North Africa, standing at 4,167meters (13,671 feet).
Mount Toubkal has always been on my list. Maybe it's the catchy name, or maybe it’s just the allure of Morocco. I’d heard it was an "easy" 4,000m peak to climb—weather permitting.
We were picked up from Marrakesh at 8:00 AM and by 9:30 AM we arrived in Imlil, a mountain town nestled in the Atlas Mountains. There I met Ibrahim, our guide for Toubkal. Taking a guide in Morocco is mandatory regardless of experience due to the tragic loss of two climbers years ago. I learned that while the guide my friend recommended to me, Mohammad primarily manages a team of guides now, and Ibrahim is kind-hearted and spoke very good English for a non-native speaker. I quickly became comfortable with Ibrahim and he showed us to a gear shop his friend owns, where we will rent a few pieces of gear we don’t have with us, and leave everything we are not taking, including our luggage at the shop.
Gear & Logistics
We learned that crampons, boots, and helmets are essential once the snow begins, which stretches from the Refugio to the summit. All of those items were about 15 euros per day, per person. I also rented a sleeping bag for $15, but it turned out to be unnecessary—the Refugio was warm and provided plenty of blankets.
Day 1: May 12
*Stats:** 10 miles | 5,000 ft elevation gain (ending at 10,000 ft).
*Duration:** 5.5 hours (including lunch and breaks).
I repacked my backpack, leaving my luggage at the rental shop. I carried a full pack containing my mountain boots and the clothes I needed for the next day, along with my water. Mules carrying drinks, and climbers backpacks passed us. I believe some climbers had mules that carried their gear to the Refugio. The trail reminded me a bit of the Everest Base Camp trek, with small shops and huts scattered along the way.
We arrived at 4:00 PM to a packed Refugio. The hallways were buzzing with hikers socializing at meal tables or resting in bed. We were shown to two bottom bunks side-by-side in a room shared with 24 others. After a 6:00 PM dinner, we were in bed by 8:30 PM. I realized quickly that my sleeping bag wasn't needed. With 26 people breathing in a small room at 36°C, we didn't even need blankets.
A place to rest, mingle, and
Make it stand out.
Day 2: May 13
I knew today would be tough: 2 miles to gain 4,000 ft to the summit (13,671 ft), followed by another 10 miles and 5,000 ft of descent back to Imlil. Ibrahim told us yesterday that we would be the first team to summit. As much as I appreciated the empowering words, I questioned myself. I remembered not being fast enough on Rainier and that never-ending steepness. I remembered failing to summit Orizaba because of "frozen eyes." With the language barrier, I didn’t know how to explain to Ibrahim that I didn't feel strong enough—yet at the same time, I’ve been listening to Melissa Arnot Reid, trying to balance my self-doubt with the eagerness to prove myself.
We clicked on our headlamps, put on our boots and crampons, and followed Ibrahim’s pace out of the Refugio at 4:10 AM. I have to say, I’ve never felt so perfect on a snow hike. I was neither hot nor cold; it was just right. Louis and I maintained a strong pace, and with Ibrahim taking the lead, we passed several groups. At the saddle, we took photos and added our final layers. I looked up and realized we were right behind the first two groups who had started before us.
The summit was extremely windy and cold, with 35 mph winds and a 17°F windchill. At 7:00 AM, we summited Toubkal, the highest peak in Morocco and North Africa. The summit structure was the perfect height for a one-arm hang photo—I couldn’t help myself!
We returned to the Refugio at 8:30 AM. After a quick tea break and repacking, we headed out at 9:30 AM and hiked back to Imlil by 1:30 PM. We were the first group of the day to summit and return to Imlil. 90 minutes later, we were in a car back to Marrakesh.
I want to thank Ibrahim for believing in us. Maybe, if I try, I can be fast enough.