Day 3: Big Arroyo Junction to Kern Hot Springs Distance: 17.8 miles (…allegedly) Elevation Gain/Loss: +2,300 ft / –5,000 ft

Pretty sure AllTrails and the trail charts are messing with me—or maybe my watch is just playing tricks. I was convinced today’s hike would be 14 miles, but it turned into nearly 18.

Right after leaving Big Arroyo Junction, we bumped into two trail runners wearing tiny vests who had started at Whitney Portal that morning. Wild. I suppose at 5 miles an hour, it can be done in 15 hours. Absolutely unreal.

We took a detour to Moraine Lake, and I’m glad we did—it was peaceful and beautiful. The trail was sandy in spots, and we lost it a few times both heading there and back. Took a long hour break on a warm rock and soaked in the views. I finally washed my socks (should’ve done it last night, but the mosquitos made being outside miserable).

After Moraine, the trail dropped into a series of switchbacks down toward the Kern River. Some heavy-looking clouds rolled in, so Louis and I reorganized gear—he took the food and sandals, and I packed anything we needed to keep dry. Better safe than soggy.

The last few miles to Kern Hot Springs were pretty mellow and mostly flat. We got there around dinnertime and went straight for the springs before the rain hit. Luckily, just a few drops fell. I wasn’t sure what to expect, but the water was actually hot-hot—perfect. I plugged both ends to make a soaking tub. A group of four hikers wandered by looking for a second pool, and we could tell they were waiting on us, so we kept it brief but sweet. Scrubbed off some trail grime with the brush nearby, which felt amazing.

Today was supposed to be our “active rest day,” but it was still a long haul. Dinner was mashed potatoes and tuna—simple, filling, and oddly satisfying. Hung clothes on a tree to dry. The hot soak, clean feet, and feeling somewhat less gross made crawling into the tent feel like luxury.

Camped: Kern Hot Springs (6,700 ft)