Kalalau Trail
The Kalalau Trail is an 11-mile (one-way) hiking trail along Kauai's Nā Pali Coast in Hawaii, requiring permits and significant backpacking and hiking experience due to its dangerous, narrow paths, and challenging stream crossings. Hikers can day hike to Hanakapi'ai Valley or the waterfall without a permit, but the full 22-mile round-trip to Kalalau Beach requires an overnight camping permit booked far in advance. The trail features stunning but treacherous scenery, including steep drop-offs and possible flash floods from rain, making it a strenuous and potentially dangerous hike.
Day 0:
In April 2022, the permit system had just changed from whatever it was to 90 days in advance. I was able to book 5 permits! Unfortunately, 3 of my friends cancelled. Except for faithful Thao.
We arrived to Kauai separately, and met up on the beach. The first day we took it easy since it was a Wednesday. The next morning, we both needed to work 7am - 2pm since that would be 9am - 4pm pacific time. All I remember was that first the Roosters outside woke us up, then I was in the bathroom taking a meeting and Thao was in the room. During the meeting the roosters kept crowing and I was wondering if other folks could hear the roosters. Thankfully no one asked me.
We rented bikes and went for a nice bike ride on the Ke Hele Makalae Path. We even met up with a new friend we mat from Couchsurfing whom we ended up going on a hike with, and when we finished a bit late in the dark, I waved down a pickup truck and we all hitchhiked to dinner. It was a pretty epic and memorial night.
The next morning on Saturday, our driver picked us up and we were dropped off at Na Pali Trailhead. I don’t remember what I did with my laptop and extra personal items. I think the driver held it for us since he was giving us a ride back in the end.
Day 1: Trailhead to the Beach
My friend Thao and I kicked off the journey with a drop-off at the trailhead by a private driver. From there, it was 11 miles to the beach—a long but rewarding start. We took it slow, pacing ourselves for the terrain ahead.
The sand section just before the infamous Crawler’s Ledge was surprisingly sketchy. At points, I found myself clutching onto nearby branches for balance as the trail shifted beneath me.
Crawler’s Ledge itself was exactly as intimidating as the photos suggest—if not more. The narrow path is barely wider than shoulder-width, with nothing but a few hundred feet of drop straight into the ocean below. To make it even spicier, the winds were howling that day, with sudden gusts that tested our balance. Passing another hiker here would have been tricky, though not impossible depending on both parties’ comfort levels.
For this hike, I carried just 1L in my Katadyn BeFree filter and a 0.5L bike bottle—a total of 1.5L. It turned out to be enough for the day, though I wouldn’t recommend pushing it much lower.
When we finally reached camp, we were rewarded with one of the best “showers” I’ve ever had—a powerful waterfall that doubled as a natural rinse. (Pro tip: hold on to your bottoms when you step under it, because that water hits hard!)
Clean and refreshed, we capped the day by watching the sun sink into the horizon, splashing the sky with shades of red and orange. It was, without question, one of the most breathtaking sunsets I’ve ever witnessed.
Stats: 11 miles | 3,400 ft gain | 9.5 hours
Day 2: Kalalau Beach to Hanakoa Falls
Waking up to the sound of waves crashing just steps from our tent felt unreal. Our campsite was tucked beside Kalalau Beach, one of the most pristine and secluded stretches of sand I’ve ever experienced. Since the only ways in are either the long hike or a non-commercial boat ride, the beach feels untouched—wild and otherworldly.
In the morning, we lingered by the ocean, soaking it all in. We wandered to the far end of the beach, where we discovered a sea cave carved into the cliffs. Exploring it felt like stepping into a hidden chamber of the island, the kind of place you’d never stumble upon without effort.
By afternoon, it was time to begin the journey back. We retraced our steps along the trail, hiking out about six miles to a campsite near Hanakoa Falls. After setting up camp, we couldn’t resist cooling off in the pools beneath the falls—a refreshing swim that was the perfect way to end the day.
Stats: 4.5 miles | 1,600 ft gain | 3.5 hours
Day 3: The Muddy Hike Out
Our final day began in darkness. At 5:30 a.m., headlamps on, we started the last stretch toward the trailhead, aiming to be picked up by 10 a.m. for a flight home later that afternoon.
The night’s rain had left the trail drenched—mud everywhere. Surprisingly, I was grateful for my non-waterproof trail runners; instead of trapping water, they let it flow through, turning every step into something like a squishy mud bath.
The trickiest part came near the trailhead. Because of the heavy rain, the water crossing was no longer the same as on our way in. The river was higher, faster, and too risky where we had originally crossed. We hiked downstream toward the beach, eventually finding a calmer spot near the outlet where the current wasn’t as strong. To keep our packs dry, we lifted them over our heads as we waded through the water—a memorable finale to an already adventurous trek.
Stats: 6 miles | 1,700 ft gain | 4 hours
Things I Wish I’d Packed
Mosquito repellent + anti-itch cream: The bugs were relentless, and I felt every bite.
Gear Notes
Trekking poles: We each carried one pole, which felt essential on the rough terrain. Zero poles would have made it much more challenging.
Shelter & cooking: We shared a tent and a Jetboil for meals.
Sleep system: I only brought a sleeping bag liner, skipping the bag since the nights were warm. It was enough, though a bit minimal.
What I Loved Most
Looking back, this trail gave me so much more than just miles on the legs:
The dramatic cliffs, flowers, and plant diversity
Foraging wild guavas along the way
Natural showers and swimming holes
The untouched beauty of Kalalau Beach
Experiencing it all with a close friend
The thrill of uncertainty and adventure
The sunsets, the challenges, and the reward of pushing ourselves
It wasn’t always easy—mud, wind, exposure, and bugs—but that’s what made it an adventure worth remembering.
